In a trouser suit, the drape of the lower half shapes much of the silhouette. Trousers follow a stride, fold when we sit, meet the shoe and settle again when we stand. Their drape depends on all these situations, as well as their line in a mirror. A fitting brings those observations together, seeking a balance between the suit’s intended design and the comfort the wearer actually feels.

How many hours does a bespoke suit take to make? The question seems to call for a number, yet two ensembles can involve very different work. The cut of the trousers or skirt, the jacket’s construction, patchwork and ornament all belong to the same project. To understand the time behind a suit, it helps to follow the decisions that develop the whole silhouette rather than look for one duration that applies to every commission.