Sometimes we notice a suit before identifying its cloth or details. The proportions of its upper and lower halves, their fabric and the way the ensemble is worn seem to share one intention. That coherence does not come from a universal formula. It develops through connected decisions, then finds its test on the wearer, in her movements and in everyday life.

How many hours does a bespoke suit take to make? The question seems to call for a number, yet two ensembles can involve very different work. The cut of the trousers or skirt, the jacket’s construction, patchwork and ornament all belong to the same project. To understand the time behind a suit, it helps to follow the decisions that develop the whole silhouette rather than look for one duration that applies to every commission.