Skirt suit, trouser suit, tuxedo: the women’s suit brings together silhouettes whose histories are not interchangeable. To understand the ensemble, we need to consider what it allows its wearer to do as well as how it looks. A few carefully chosen moments reveal its ability to change meaning while retaining a recognisable structure.

A suit can suggest work, ceremony, restraint or fantasy. Its meaning depends on its proportions, what accompanies it and how it is worn. The women’s suit remains interesting because it preserves recognisable signs while allowing them to move. Its appeal lies in that range of readings, rather than in a single intention to attract attention or refuse it.