The Journal.

Tailoring history, life behind the scenes at the Maison and a guide to bespoke.

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the Silhouette. Sandra Loï - @sandraloi.paris the Silhouette. Sandra Loï - @sandraloi.paris

A bespoke suit: what makes a silhouette feel coherent

Sometimes we notice a suit before identifying its cloth or details. The proportions of its upper and lower halves, their fabric and the way the ensemble is worn seem to share one intention. That coherence does not come from a universal formula. It develops through connected decisions, then finds its test on the wearer, in her movements and in everyday life.

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the Silhouette. Sandra Loï - @sandraloi.paris the Silhouette. Sandra Loï - @sandraloi.paris

The drape of bespoke trousers: what to notice at a fitting

In a trouser suit, the drape of the lower half shapes much of the silhouette. Trousers follow a stride, fold when we sit, meet the shoe and settle again when we stand. Their drape depends on all these situations, as well as their line in a mirror. A fitting brings those observations together, seeking a balance between the suit’s intended design and the comfort the wearer actually feels.

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the Silhouette. Sandra Loï - @sandraloi.paris the Silhouette. Sandra Loï - @sandraloi.paris

Quiet luxury: learning to look at the cut

A discreet label is not enough to establish the quality of a garment. Neither is a neutral colour. To choose a suit for what it actually brings to a wardrobe, we need to look more closely: how it sits, how the material supports the shape and what happens when we move. Quiet luxury can then become a way of observing rather than a list of visual signs to adopt.

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